In the morning we had a lovely breakfast as provided by the Albergue de la Abuela, including a nice cake that is made daily. Originally the grandmother made the cake for the pilgrims, but now her son carries on the tradition.
It was a beautiful day. All around us were pilgrims celebrating the Easter weekend. This would be our longest walk of the camino thus far. I have many pictures of wonderful landscapes and steep hills. This could be the archetypical day as went walked kilometer after kilometer through the countryside.
Once we were in the town of Viana, we stopped for lunch across from the cathedral. Leo wanted to sit outside, but I was cold and insisted on an inside table. After lunch we took a few minutes to tour the cathedral. As we were leaving, we noticed some Spaniards stomping on a stone in the yard. I asked about it, and the story revealed this was the burial marker for a much hated local politician. Tradition maintains that visitors show their disgust by stomping on the tomb!
As we approached Logrono, the road became asphalt and our feet began to tire. We crested a hill and began the descent into the city. There is a woman who lives along this path, her family guarded the pilgrim road into Logrono for generations, and she is still there, greeting weary pilgrims and offering a stamp. Leo and I stopped for a minute and then continued along. Suddenly I remembered I had left my guidebook, and I had to run back up the hill. It was amazing how many pilgrims I passed who were coming into the city. I grabbed my guidebook and hurried back to Leo, and we entered into the suburbs.
At one point we smelled thick smoke, and ashes fell around us. We were passing the crematorium! Service had just ended! Oh, what a reminder that Europe is not the same as the States! We continued to along the riverbank, around us more and more pilgrims were marching. Then up a few stairs and across a wide bridge into the city. On the other side of the river, the paths diverged to different hostals. Leo and I decided to head toward the municipal. As we walked up the narrow street, I noticed a sign which translated said, “Go around the corner to enter the Albergue”. So Leo and I turned when others went straight.
Did I mention it was Easter weekend, and that there were many Spaniards along the camino? All the hotel rooms, private albergues, casa rurals, etc had been pre-booked by the locals who were coming into the city for Easter services in the morning.
Leo and I walked into the Albergue just as two other pilgrims were finishing check-in. We handed over our credencials and began the process of being assigned a bed. Behind us came a tidal wave of other pilgrims. And here is the thing: Leo and I got the last two beds in the city. Everyone else who either have to go back, or go forward…miles and miles! Women were crying, men were moaning. Groups began to call for taxis to take them to the next town. We lost Maas, Anna and Swiss Maria at this time.
All Leo and I knew were we were done for the day, our “dogs were barking”. We went to find our beds, and well, there was Susanne in a bunk over from us. She introduced us to Heidi, another pilgrim from Switzerland who spoke very little English. Glaucia was also there at this Albergue. We decided to cook dinner in the kitchen.
Leo’s leg hurt fairly badly, and my feet were not happy, but after some initial consternation in the courtyard, we were able to walk to the nearby market for supplies. Dinner was going to be delicious for only 3 euro per person! We also stopped by the cathedral, and marveled at the scenic public square. Logrono is a city I would like to visit again when I have time.
The five of us cooked a wonderful dinner of salad, pasta and wine. Susanne did a great job! There was a contigent of young Koreans in the kitchen, and I felt bad that we did not have enough to share, but even as we began cleaning, they went out to the market. An hour or so later and the Koreans had a dinner twice as amazing as ours. I was lucky to receive an asparagus wrapped in proscuitto from their feast.
Between the long walk, grabbing the last two beds and the wonderful communal dinner, this was a magical day on the camino.
It was a beautiful day. All around us were pilgrims celebrating the Easter weekend. This would be our longest walk of the camino thus far. I have many pictures of wonderful landscapes and steep hills. This could be the archetypical day as went walked kilometer after kilometer through the countryside.
Once we were in the town of Viana, we stopped for lunch across from the cathedral. Leo wanted to sit outside, but I was cold and insisted on an inside table. After lunch we took a few minutes to tour the cathedral. As we were leaving, we noticed some Spaniards stomping on a stone in the yard. I asked about it, and the story revealed this was the burial marker for a much hated local politician. Tradition maintains that visitors show their disgust by stomping on the tomb!
As we approached Logrono, the road became asphalt and our feet began to tire. We crested a hill and began the descent into the city. There is a woman who lives along this path, her family guarded the pilgrim road into Logrono for generations, and she is still there, greeting weary pilgrims and offering a stamp. Leo and I stopped for a minute and then continued along. Suddenly I remembered I had left my guidebook, and I had to run back up the hill. It was amazing how many pilgrims I passed who were coming into the city. I grabbed my guidebook and hurried back to Leo, and we entered into the suburbs.
At one point we smelled thick smoke, and ashes fell around us. We were passing the crematorium! Service had just ended! Oh, what a reminder that Europe is not the same as the States! We continued to along the riverbank, around us more and more pilgrims were marching. Then up a few stairs and across a wide bridge into the city. On the other side of the river, the paths diverged to different hostals. Leo and I decided to head toward the municipal. As we walked up the narrow street, I noticed a sign which translated said, “Go around the corner to enter the Albergue”. So Leo and I turned when others went straight.
Did I mention it was Easter weekend, and that there were many Spaniards along the camino? All the hotel rooms, private albergues, casa rurals, etc had been pre-booked by the locals who were coming into the city for Easter services in the morning.
Leo and I walked into the Albergue just as two other pilgrims were finishing check-in. We handed over our credencials and began the process of being assigned a bed. Behind us came a tidal wave of other pilgrims. And here is the thing: Leo and I got the last two beds in the city. Everyone else who either have to go back, or go forward…miles and miles! Women were crying, men were moaning. Groups began to call for taxis to take them to the next town. We lost Maas, Anna and Swiss Maria at this time.
All Leo and I knew were we were done for the day, our “dogs were barking”. We went to find our beds, and well, there was Susanne in a bunk over from us. She introduced us to Heidi, another pilgrim from Switzerland who spoke very little English. Glaucia was also there at this Albergue. We decided to cook dinner in the kitchen.
Leo’s leg hurt fairly badly, and my feet were not happy, but after some initial consternation in the courtyard, we were able to walk to the nearby market for supplies. Dinner was going to be delicious for only 3 euro per person! We also stopped by the cathedral, and marveled at the scenic public square. Logrono is a city I would like to visit again when I have time.
The five of us cooked a wonderful dinner of salad, pasta and wine. Susanne did a great job! There was a contigent of young Koreans in the kitchen, and I felt bad that we did not have enough to share, but even as we began cleaning, they went out to the market. An hour or so later and the Koreans had a dinner twice as amazing as ours. I was lucky to receive an asparagus wrapped in proscuitto from their feast.
Between the long walk, grabbing the last two beds and the wonderful communal dinner, this was a magical day on the camino.
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